Travel Diary: Aatma, The Ayurveda Centre, Kerala, India
Aatma means soul. I liked the name as soon as I heard it. Strong. To the point. Exactly how the business operates as well.
Then I heard that the Mooss family of doctors come from a long lineage of Ayurvedic doctors. Even more the reason to join some friends for a 21-day Panchakarma journey in the south of India in the land known as Ananda Puram – Bliss Land.
“This family is famous in Ayurveda,” was one of the first things the driver said to me on the 30-minute drive from Kochi airport. So why are they so famous? That’s what I went to go find out.
Firstly, the Mooss family are a part of the Ashtavaidya Tradition meaning they are one of 18 Brahmin families in Kerala (Brahmin refers to the highest-ranking cast of people in the traditional Hindu cast system). Senior Dr. Mooss, who is still very involved in the business was the doctor to Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, founder of the Transcendental Meditation technique for part of his life. The man is pure, graceful, elegant.
His son, Dr. Ravi has now taken over as head doctor together with his wife, Dr. Arya after years studying both at college as well as for six years under his father. A true “guru relationship,” it was not until his father deemed him “ready” was he allowed to consult patients.
However, go back to the 1800’s, Ravi’s Great Grandfather’s Great Grandfather was very famous and supposedly enlightened. He spent 12 years meditating and chanting mantras at a temple in the north of Kerala which was also believed to be where the Sri Adi Sankara also became enlightened. He was able to simply look at his patients and be able to tell them what was wrong with them and even the specific date of when they were going to die.
People flocked from all over to see him. It was here that the Mooss family gained their fame.
Consultations
the Mooss family come to your room daily for consultations. Doctors don’t touch the patient nor use any method such as tongue, eye or pulse diagnosis. They simple look at you. The way you walk, the way you enter a room, the way you speak. This is how they can tell you what it going on with your health.
Ravi is no doubt both passionate and knowledgeable on Ayurveda. Unlike a lot of Vaidyas who I’ve come in contact with, he spends time with you, talks to you, explains things and always has a good story up his sleeve.
His wife was very generous with her time and with her specialisation in psychiatrics, she offers counselling to those who need it. She defines talking, writing and meditating as the best way to clear the emotional and mental stress.
Accommodation
Rooms are simple, but clean. The centre only has 18 rooms including three villas making it nice and intimate. I think I had one of the best rooms with three windows looking over lush green rice paddies, palm trees and a lake at the local temple. It’s so beautiful to just sit on the balcony and watch the local workers in the field, holy men swim in the lake, and cows and ducks communing with each other.
Food & Herbs
Aatma has a strong focus on herbs. I was taking around 8-10 individually tailored Rasayana’s, arishtam’s, pastes and capsules sending me into an Ayurvedic daze for a few weeks. Ravi told me “Bitter herbs make life sweeter, while sweet herbs make life more bitter.” Ayurvedic herbs never taste good to me.
The food also simple and sattvic. Breakfast was by far the best meal of the day which often was idli, dosa, semolina and upma porridge with a side of fresh coconut chutney. Lunch was usually dhal, rice and various vegetables, and dinner was kitchari, chapati, quinoa and again, various vegetable.
Chai is offered at the clinic every morning and afternoon for those who feel inclined. It is not usually apart of the Panchakarma program.
Panchakarma Process
The Mooss family believe that dis-ease goes away when the body is pure and advise good digestion and sleep are the two main things for good health. 21 days is usually what is recommended for a full body detoxification.
It begins with a cleaning phase or a collecting of all the bad things in the body and mind. This involves Patra Pottali (leave bundle to induce sweating) and Nasyam (nasal treatment) for 3-5 days. After they have cleaned the body, they nourish it to go deeper using absolutely delicious oils. Abhaynga oil massage was the treatment of choice as it is said that when you push things for 14 days continuously, it all comes back to the stomach area. After 14 days, they remove what is collected, known as “Ama” through basti enema.
Once the body is clean, it has its own intelligence to protect us and produce good enzymes, good hormones, better blood flow. We become more smooth and flexible. It is here everything in life improves.
Additional Activities
Kerala is probably my favourite part of India because I find it a lot more quiet and clean. The people are friendly and it feels safe.
There are many local temples worth visiting within walking distance including a Vishnu, Durga, Shiva and Ram temple.
There is also a waterfall about an hour drive if you can get a group together to go.
Joytish readings (vedic astrology) and yagya’s (fire ceremony) are also available on request.
The Ayurveda Museum (Vaidyaratnam) established and owned by the Mooss family is also about a 30-minute drive and well worth the dip into Vedic knowledge and history.
If you’re lucky to have a yoga teacher in your group, morning yoga on the roof top is a beautiful way to start the day.
Sadly the Mooss tradition ends here as Ravi has welcomed two girls into the world with no intention to try for a boy. Nevertheless, get in while you can as I hear it gets fully booked 2-3 years in advanced during peak season, oct-march.
visit mooss.com for more information.